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Whenever assembling a roll of London’s best dining spots, one might expect well-known Michelin-starred establishments. However, tucked near the top among these culinary titans is a unpretentious salonu found in a distant corner of northern London.

A Surprise Honour

The compact Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent food magazine. This honour has left the proprietors utterly astonished.

“I am utterly astonished,” says a family member, referring to his parents’ relentless work that led to their small shop earning such a high position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

The compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing food hotspot, has retained much of its earlier feel. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking display, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” comments the owner.

The Star Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the food, and this eatery definitely excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in gradually. When the meaty mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the tasty meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a powerful burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a richer, more aromatic and more balanced flavour.

Surpassing the Stars

Interestingly, this modest spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, comparable meals at top-tier establishments can start at many times that figure.

A Creed of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a role of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to show them the traps of excess, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was really tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a life outside work but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s success is bound to echo beyond its own doors. “I believe numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the wider significance of this gastronomic honour.