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When fall sets in, Madrid exhales a shared sigh of relief. All venues is open again, and the intense summer heat, which appears to radiate from the walls and pavements, has mellowed into agreeably mild temperatures. It's the perfect climate for relaxing on a outdoor patio as the sun tickles your skin and day transitions into evening. Noise levels have returned to normal, which means the city is bustling once more.

It seems as if the whole population is out on the streets, catching up with friends and chatting about all the things they want to do, the films they hope to see, the recently opened venues they've discovered, and the restaurants they are eager to try in the weeks ahead. If you could do with a boost, spend a few days in the Spanish capital this fall.

The dazzling light and bright skies lift your mood the moment you arrive. Madrid being the most elevated major capital in Europe could be something to do with that. It is also a comparatively recent capital. North African settlers settled here in the 800s, building a citadel where the royal palace and cathedral now stand, but Madrid only really got going when King Philip II moved his court here from the city of Toledo in 1561, establishing the city as the fresh capital of Spain.

To gain an understanding of the city's heritage, stroll from the Puerta del Sol – the heart not just of Madrid but of the whole of Spain – to the 17th-century Plaza Mayor, which is framed by redbrick buildings with grey rooftops and slender towers. Then stroll along Cava Baja, which traces the path of the medieval city wall. Remnants survive in the basements of several bars and restaurants that originated as inns and public houses for traders and travellers who came by stagecoach.

In Madrid, you absorb the city's past just by exploring on foot. In the Literary Quarter, the bar-lined streets are dedicated to the great writers who lived there in the Renaissance era, such as Miguel de Cervantes, Quevedo, and Lope de Vega.

Walk in, find yourself a place at the bar and you'll ask yourself why you don't live in Madrid

You could dedicate weeks in the city's big three museums – Museo del Prado, Thyssen Museum, and Reina Sofía – but aim to fit in some additional ones too. The San Fernando Fine Arts Academy gets a fraction of the visitors, despite being near the Puerta del Sol and boasting astounding collections that include Francisco Goya, El Greco, Picasso, and Zurbarán.

This autumn, I'm looking forward to the Suma Flamenca (October 14 to November 2), where leading flamenco performers, vocalists, and artists will be showcasing new work such as Flamenco Gospel by Juan Carmona. The main festival location is the Canal Theatres, an arts complex designed by Juan Navarro Baldeweg, one of Spain's most renowned designers, who is also an creative (an show of his work is on at Centro Centro until December 14). The Teatros del Canal is also a central point for the Autumn Festival (November 6 to 30), one of the cultural highlights of the year, with theatre, concerts, and more by local and global artists.

The Chamberí district, where the Canal Theatres is located, is in a more local area, just above downtown. The most traditional and distinctive areas of the city, regarded as the heartlands of a "authentic" and distinctive Madrileño spirit, are called barrios castizos – and this district certainly fits that category. Base yourself here for a more authentic feel – try the palatial and stylish One Shot Fortuny, which has rooms from around £160 room-only in the autumn.

As you explore, take in the blooms hanging from the wrought-iron balconies and the shiny produce outside small stores (particularly the mushrooms at this time of year) and peer into the small, tiled bars where residents are having a quick coffee or beer. Walk in, grab a seat at the bar and you'll wonder why you aren't living in Madrid.

Trafalgar, the part of Chamberí nearest the centre, is fast becoming one of the most fashionable parts of town, but still has a laid-back, community feel. I've been meeting friends in the Plaza de Olavide for years and seen it undergo umpteen makeovers.

Several streets flow into the square, bringing a steady flow of people searching for friends and dragging chairs to form messy groups of all ages that evolve constantly as the night wears on. It's normal to plan to meet one friend here, and end up with a group of ten.

New bars, diners, art spaces, and shops are opening in traditional premises here, but I love that the owners behind them are preserving the authentic fixtures and fittings or sourcing metal counters and revamping old bar stools to recreate the castizo character, while also incorporating their own modern vibe. Pop into Trafalgar Bar for a cocktail – or maybe a vermouth and a smoked ham and cheese toasted sandwich – and you'll see what I mean. It's the type of spot that functions at all hours of day or night. I love the Olavide Book Bar too, both a store and a cafe – looking through titles and drinking a glass of wine are among of my preferred things.

Also on my list this fall is Architecture Week (until October 13, although some exhibitions run beyond that date). The programme includes an Siza exhibition (until January 9, 2026) at the Madrid Architects' Association, a short stroll from the Olavide Square. This is followed by Madrid Otra Mirada (October 16-19), when you can tour old structures and parks that are not usually open to the visitors.

At the Fernán Gómez Centro Cultural de la Villa, Leica: A Century of Photography, 1925-2025, features work by Sebastião Salgado, McCurry, and García-Alix and is open until January 11. And I'll be reserving in advance for American Art Exhibition at the Thyssen-Bornemisza (October 21 to January 25).

While there's certainly a lot to see and do at this season, you don't want to get too focused on filling your days with plans. Madrid is all about going with the flow. Drift around Retiro Park for a few hours, taking in the strikingly bright pink and ochre tones of the oak, chestnut trees, and willow trees. Leave the park on the eastern edge, where Calle de Ibiza and the surrounding streets have become a culinary destination. I enjoy tapas at the bar at La Catapa or Rox Tavern, although both offer tables if you need to rest weary legs.

There's a lot to see and do at this time of year, but don't pack your days with schedules. Madrid is all about being spontaneous

For more autumnal hues, it's now a lot easier to visit the refined Moro Gardens, which descend from the palace to the river. There used to be only one access point, down by the river – which always seemed like too much of a hike after traipsing around the palace. A lot of people weren't aware that the gardens were open to the public. Now, thank goodness, you can get in from the top end, from the San Vicente Hill or the Cuesta de la Vega, which is very convenient if you are going to the Royal Collections Museum as there is direct access.

If you haven't visited Madrid for a while, this museum, which opened in 2023, is a must, with artworks by Bosch, Tiziano, Diego Velázquez, and Goya as well as a huge collection of valuables {collected|